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CITRUS

As previously mentioned, Brokaw Ranch Company is a coastal tree-fruit grower. The Santa Paula ranch, where all of the Farmers’ Market and direct restaurant citrus is grown, is located just 10 miles from the ocean.
So, is there a difference between coastal citrus and San Joaquin Valley citrus? Absolutely. San Joaquin Valley citrus matures earlier, grows larger, and tends to be sweeter—but often lacks the depth of flavor found in coastal fruit. In contrast, coastal citrus offers a more intense sweet-tart balance and can remain on the trees well into the summer.

While much of the San Joaquin Valley’s citrus is harvested in December and January—then stored for continued sales—coastal citrus is typically harvested fresh, starting in February and continuing for several months. Thanks to the milder coastal temperatures, fruit can be left on the trees until it is ready for use, eliminating the need for long-term storage.

For example, by the time the Santa Paula coastal blood orange harvest begins in mid-February, most San Joaquin Valley blood oranges have already been sold from storage for several weeks. Similarly, the Tango Mandarin harvest doesn’t even begin until July, yet the fruit retains its just-picked firmness and exceptional quality.
Clients who seek full-flavored fruit can taste the difference. Brokaw Ranch Company’s coastal location allows us to provide the freshest, highest-quality citrus long after San Joaquin Valley production has ended—right up until the cherry and stone fruit harvests begin.

MANDARIN SEQUENCE
KISHU & CLEMENTINE MANDARINS

Grown in Santa Paula, the Kishu and Clementine mandarins are the first of the season to be harvested, usually from December through early February.

The Kishu is a very small, truly seedless mandarin with a pleasant, semi-firm texture, a strong sweet-tart flavor, and a delightful aftertaste. It is easy to peel and is a niche variety highly sought after by retail and restaurant clients.

The Clementine is a classic heirloom variety that was once referred to as an Algerian. It is very juicy, sweet-tart, and slightly firm in texture, with a few seeds and semi-easy peeling. It also boasts a golden-orange color and an attractive appearance. Clients love Clementines for their quintessential mandarin flavor. One season, Michelin-starred Lazy Bear bought numerous cases weekly, featuring Brokaw Clementine Soda on their tasting menu. They even gave a couple of bottles to my wife and me, and they were amazing!

The Clementine is a superb “staple” mandarin that gracefully marks the beginning of Brokaw Ranch Company’s citrus harvest season.

DAISY & NOVA MANDARINS

These lesser-known varieties are byproducts of UC Riverside variety trial plots hosted on the Santa Paula ranch. Upon trial completion, the host rancher often has the option to continue growing the trees, which was the case for these two varieties.

The ideal Daisy and Nova harvest windows are very similar to that of the Clementine. While the Clementine is usually harvested first, followed by the Daisys and then the Novas, December tastings sometimes indicate that one or both of the latter two varieties are more developed and should be harvested and purveyed first.

Both varieties are very juicy, strongly sweet-tart in flavor, nearly seedless, firm in texture, not easy to peel, and beautifully deep orange. Since they’re not ideal for rapid peeling, I like to cut them into six wedges for easier, cleaner peeling before serving them in a bowl.

Daisys and Novas are beloved by both retail and restaurant clients and serve as the perfect bridge between the Clementine and the flagship Gold Nugget variety.

GOLD NUGGET MANDARINS

This exceptional variety was inherited from a UC Riverside variety trial located on the Santa Paula ranch. When first introduced in the mid-1990s—before being officially named and patented—it was referred to as “Pixie-Like” due to its late-season harvest window, similar to that of a Pixie Mandarin. Eventually, this outstanding mandarin was patented and named Gold Nugget. Recognizing its superior quality, Brokaw Ranch Company not only preserved the original trial plot but also expanded its acreage.

In my opinion, this is the best mandarin that has ever existed. It is larger in size, has a firm yet semi-easy-to-peel skin, and delivers an incredibly potent sweet-tart flavor. It is juicy, completely seedless, and boasts a truly unique texture. When bitten into, the juicy and firm flesh offers a delightfully refreshing crispness—an experience that is difficult to describe and must be enjoyed firsthand.

Because this variety already has a late harvest season and is grown within 10 miles of the ocean, Gold Nuggets store beautifully on the trees. They can be harvested from mid-February through mid-June with consistently excellent results.

With its unbeatable combination of size, flavor, texture, and storability, Gold Nugget truly has it all—no wonder it’s considered Brokaw Ranch Company’s flagship variety.

W. MURCOTT & TANGO MANDARINS

These are both extremely late-harvesting varieties grown in Santa Paula.

The W. Murcott harvest starts in mid-June and lasts until late July. This is a softer, easier-to-peel mandarin with a strong, juicy flavor and very few seeds. While they’re delicious, purveying them is a little awkward, as high-quality stone fruits are also available within that time window. However, for those who require a freshly harvested mandarin of excellent quality in mid-summer, W. Murcotts splendidly fulfill the bill.

In late July, the Tango harvest begins. These mandarins mature so late that it’s almost eerie. Who would expect that, in August, an unpicked mandarin would still exhibit that freshly matured citrus firmness and taste so delightfully sweet, juicy, and full of flavor? And to top it off, they’re completely seedless.

By their harvest time, many clients have already satisfied their stone fruit cravings, as the season is winding down and fruit quality is starting to decline. Fortunately, freshly harvested, high-quality Tango mandarins are available and will continue to be well into September.

ORANGES
MORO BLOOD ORANGES

This heirloom variety is one of the most common and is grown in all California citrus regions. While those from the San Joaquin Valley often develop solid crimson-colored flesh, coastal-grown ones tend to present more of a color continuum—dark burgundy at the blossom end, gradually giving way to a lighter orange at the stem. This color gradient displays beautifully when the fruit is cut in half, from stem to blossom end.

Grown in Santa Paula, Moros are harvested from mid-February through early May. While the fruit is not as large or as deeply red as its San Joaquin Valley counterparts, it distinguishes itself with its juiciness, gentle but conspicuous aroma, and crisp, refreshing tartness. Given that there is competition from the many San Joaquin Valley Moro growers—who are usually sold out by the time we start our harvest—Brokaw Ranch Company Moros make up the “second wave” of seasonal blood oranges and are highly sought after by citrus-loving farmers’ market customers and direct restaurant clients.

SEEDLESS WASHINGTON & LATE NAVELS

The Washington Navel is the classic California heirloom navel variety. It grows reliably in all California citrus regions and is one of the first to mature and be harvested.

Picking usually begins in late January, though sometimes as early as December. Washington Navels have a classic deep-orange color, are large and round, and are absolutely beautiful to look at. Though their tight skin is firm, it actually peels fairly easily by hand, making them one of the best oranges for hand-to-mouth consumption.
Brokaw Ranch Company Washington Navels are very sweet and juicy, with a strong orange-tart taste. Grown in Santa Paula, they are among the first citrus harvested, usually from January through late March.

Late Navels generally refer to a series of varieties that originated in Australia and tend to mature later than the Washington. The varieties grown in Santa Paula are called Chislett and Rhoda. Like the Washington, they are big, round, and beautifully orange. Coastally grown Chisletts and Rhodas exhibit that signature sweet-tart crisp flavor. These are the second and third varieties in the Navel series, with a March-through-May harvest window that begins right after the Washington Navel pick is completed.

VALENCIA ORANGES

This is the juicing counterpart to the Washington Navel—an heirloom California variety that has been around forever. My father always said it was hands down the best-flavored orange.

Valencias harvest much later than navels, are messy to peel, and seem to be structured specifically for juicing. When subjected to a reamer, they yield a deep orange, rich, sweet-tart juice with minimal pulp. The juice yield per orange is extremely high, making them an essential component of a classic California breakfast.

The Santa Paula Valencia harvest begins once the late Navel harvest is complete—usually in June—and continues through August.

MEIWA KUMQUATS

Kumquats are a very small citrus fruit that is eaten with the skin. It is said that the flesh is tart while the skin is the sweet part. The traditional kumquat variety is called the Nagami—it is deep orange, oval-shaped, and, despite the sweeter skin, has an overall tart flavor.

In Santa Paula, Brokaw Ranch Company grows a different kumquat variety called the Meiwa. It is not quite as dark orange as the Nagami, is rounder, and has a more delicate rind. But the biggest difference is the taste—the Meiwa is sweeter and more palatable while still delivering a strong tart citrus flavor.

The Meiwa is delicious and considered far more enjoyable to eat than the traditional kumquat by the vast majority of our retail clients. What surprises me, however, is how coveted they are by our restaurant clientele. Not knowing the first thing about back-of-the-house restaurant operations, I always assumed that tarter fruit would work better for pastry and bar applications. Yet, season after season, chefs and mixologists alike eagerly anticipate the Meiwa Kumquat harvest, which begins in mid-February and continues through late May.

Beyond their incredible flavor, what I appreciate most about Meiwas is their convenience—since there’s no need to peel them, they are by far the best citrus for effortless, hand-to-mouth consumption.

STAR RUBY GRAPEFRUIT

When I think of red grapefruit, Texas-grown Ruby Reds are the first that come to mind. I’m not a fan of extreme heat, but red grapefruit seems to thrive in it. While the hotter San Joaquin Valley can produce tasty specimens, coastal avocado country might seem at a disadvantage—were it not for the Star Ruby variety.

The Star Ruby is a beautiful, reddish-yellow grapefruit of average size that sweetens delightfully in the coastal Southern California climate. Its flesh is medium to dark amber in color, very juicy and strong in flavor, yet sweet enough to enjoy on its own.

Star Rubies are grown in Santa Paula and harvested from February through July. Their skin is a bit thicker, but their attractive flesh and refreshingly crisp, juicy flavor make them more than worthwhile.

EUREKA & MEYER LEMONS

Eurekas and Lisbons are the consummate heirloom lemon varieties, and Brokaw Ranch Company happens to grow the Eurekas. This variety is very tart and juicy, as one would expect from a lemon. For any application requiring a strong acidic component—lemonade, margaritas, ceviche, lemon meringue pie, lemon bars, etc.—the Eureka is the variety you want to use.

They’re grown in Santa Paula and harvested year-round. One thing that stands out when handling Brokaw Ranch Company lemons is their healthy firmness. This is because they are always purveyed right after harvest. Conventional wisdom has led many consumers to look for softer lemons under the assumption that they’re juicier, but this is a misconception. Freshly harvested, firm lemons are at their juiciest—softness is simply a result of prolonged storage. My advice? Stick with firm citrus.

Brokaw Ranch Company also grows Meyer lemons in Santa Paula. This variety has a thinner skin and a sweeter taste, making it popular for specific culinary applications. Due to its lower acidity, I consider it more of a designer citrus rather than a true lemon.

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